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Monday, March 14, 2011

Peachy Picks San Pietro

San Pietro is much more than a gorgeous wine glass filled with even more gorgeous wine made just for the Brunos by Ferragamo, no kidding.  Officially it is the Tenuta di Castiglioni produced by the Ferragamo Family composed of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Sangiovese 2008.
We love love love love the Bruno brothers.
We have to say love four times because there are four of them.
We love Sistina:
We love Caravaggio:
And now we love San Pietro!
All we can say is hat trick by the Bruno brothers!
Peachy and Gerardo Bruno
The state of Campania of the Brunos is going to put you in a state of bliss.
San Pietro was first featured in Tasty Tidbits:
They had us at hello when Sam the bartender knew how to make The Peachy Deegan the minute she walked in.  In the history of Whom You Know, San Pietro is the first restaurant to have The Peachy Deegan before Peachy Deegan has officially reviewed it!  Gerardo and Antonio, the older brothers, taught the younger brothers, Giuseppe and Cosimo well.  So, to return the favor, the younger brothers told the older ones about the most fabulous vodka in the world which is of course American and the most fabulous drink in the world that you can make with it, created by Robert Caravaggi of Swifty's who incidentally is Italian and his father's first name was Bruno, of the legendary Quo Vadis.  You know we're talking about The Peachy Deegan made with Star Vodka!  And if you talk to Gerardo you'll hear about how the bar has the lighting of the sun going down at Salerno at 6pm...
In the movies of course they say "Play it again, Sam!" but in this column we say "Shake it again, Sam!" because Sam is a fabulous Peachy Deegan shaker and maker!
Now San Pietro is much more than a new home to The Peachy Deegan, but you can understand our obvious excitement.  San Pietro is a step above the rest down to every last detail from the intricate lighting of tiny Swarovski chandeliers that mimic the constellations to the cuisine to die for to the level of caring exuded by Gerardo Bruno.  Manolo Dias was a total peach the whole night and he is one of the best captains if not the best we've ever encountered with his fantastic sense of humor and we must say we think we like him even better than the other Manolos and you know how many times you've seen Peachy exclaim Amo Le Scarpe Italiane!  We began with some delightful fried zucchini and bruchetta:
The Bruno brothers came to America in 1976 and of course you all know that is a very good year. Ahem- you know who was born then.    Gerardo regaled the panel with lovely Bruno stories all night which were totally appreciated since we know them all now.  They first went to Newark, NJ as their father's sister had met an American after World War II and he was from Newark.  
They stayed in Newark for 5 days which would have been 4 days too long for Peachy, and Gerardo told Peachy he said at that point "If this is America then I want to go back home!"  Then they came to Manhattan and lived at 69th and 1st where the four boys had an apartment for $350 a month.   The Brunos really do have the best stories but we know you want to hear about the cuisine...  But to us, it is all about the entire experience.  Peachy had to ask after the Marine flag you see on your way to the bathroom because her grandfather is the proudest Marine anyone could ever meet and a member of the Iwo Jima Survivors Association.  The Marine Flag at San Pietro joined by an American Flag and they are in memory of a San Pietro employee from Italy that was visiting a family member at the World Trade Center on 9/11/01 and passed...these flags are from the Pentagon.  If you think Peachy knows a lot of people, spend some time talking to the Brunos!
If you like Tuna Carpaccio, we can say with all sincerity it would be an absolute waste of time to order it anywhere else in the world.  The angels must have sliced this yellow fin tuna as it danced in truffle oil - the texture of the seared slices melted in Peachy's mouth.  Buffalo mozzarella and mixed greens joined the party and the hand-sliced black truffles were like the cherry on top.
Here is Manolo with Peachy's dinner from the gods of the sea!  Called Zuppa dei pescatori salernitani, the seafood dish is composed of white wine, olive oil, celery, laurel, leeks, tomatoes and extra virgin olive oil.  Every bite was better than the previous one and for anyone that is a seafood enthusiast like Peachy is going to feel like it must be their birthday if they are eating this.  
If you think it was exciting to watch Sam shake The Peachy Deegan, then wait until you see Manolo make the Crespelle alla San Pietro with Grand Mariner, fresh berries and vanilla gelato. At first the process reminded Peachy Deegan of two members of the Boston College hockey team from her class who shall remain nameless who used to light their Drakkar Noir on fire, but then as it progressed we could see it was far better than that.  Manolo's pyrotechnics rival the Macy's Fourth of July Fireworks, but they are even better because it is your own bespoke dessert!   Oooh you know we are so into bespoke.
Manolo, like everyone else we met at San Pietro, and at Sistina and Caravaggio too for that matter, truly exude joy with their occupation and we can tell!  Look at that smile.
The fabulous panel comments:

When I walked inside San Pietro  I was warmly greeted by Lubi (who is also the sommelier) and I could tell that this was an intimate, special restaurant.  As I sipped my welcoming Peachy Deegan cocktail, Manolo passionately recited from memory an extensive list of specials.  The owner Gerardo Bruno took the time to share with us his incredible life story and even showed us pictures from Salerno, from where the restaurant’s tomatoes and olive oil are imported.  The attentive staff was ready to help at any moment and most importantly the people at San Pietro are not just polite but genuinely friendly, and in my opinion they showed us the highest form of hospitality.  The wood paneled walls exhibit paintings of ships in the Salerno harbor illuminated by the late day sun, and the ceiling is truly a work of art, an array of crystals and lights in the pattern of constellations and planets based on a sketch from the Uffizi Gallery in Firenze.  If you cannot hop onto a plane to Italy at the moment, then go to San Pietro to be transported there through food, wine and hospitality.
The bruschetta was amazing, clearly because of the use of top notch ingredients such as olive oil, tomato, basil and oregano.  Thin strips of fried zucchini were crisp and tasty.  As Manolo and other staff members recommended the special fusilli, I gladly took their suggestions.   The freshly made corkscrew shaped pasta had the perfect texture and was served with a dry ricotta that had a sharp flavor, and delicious ground Italian sausage.  Once again I noted that although there were only a few ingredients, it was the quality and preparation that made this dish phenomenal. 

I then had Veal Scaloppini with tomatoes, oregano, basil and melted smoked mozzarella on top; the topping itself could have stood on its own, but it really was delicious with the thinly breaded veal, each bite with the just right proportion of flavors.  A platter of freshly made potato chips was placed in the center of the table.  The dining experience here is to be savored and not rushed, and therefore as our courses were spaced out by good company and conversation we eventually found we were ready for dessert!  To our delight our dessert was made right by our table.  Manolo cut fresh oranges which were cooked with Grand Marnier, and before our very eyes he prepared  the most spectacular Crespelle alla San Pietro:  the crepes had a divine sauce with the flavor of the fresh oranges and caramelized sugar, and were topped with beautiful berries and creamy vanilla gelato that began to melt perfectly into the crepes.  Every bite was heavenly!  We also shared a plate of the juiciest,  sweetest blood oranges, and very refreshing sorbets of both lemon and peach flavor.  Finally we also sampled a decadent chocolate mousse while dipping delightful biscotti into an espresso.


Gerardo carefully selected the wine to complement our meal:  The Greco di Tufo, which is from Campania region, was refreshing with a hint of pear and a dry tanginess that danced on the tongue.  With our main course Gerardo recommended Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino 2004, which happens to be made at an estate owned by the Ferragamo family.  The wine, which was poured into a decanter at the table, exemplifies how good vino can escalate any dining experience.    Raising my etched San Pietro glass to admire the sparkling dark ruby color, I found the wine to have a wonderful peppery aroma, and every sip was a delight of spice and berries with an interesting, complex finish.  I will definitely hope to have this wine again in the future!  Finally our dessert was complemented by Luigo Maffini Passito: pale gold with flavors of honey and syrup, Gerardo had once again found us just the right wine to go with dessert!  Come to San Pietro when you are not rushed; distance yourself from the fast-paced bustle of midtown outside to relax and really savor wonderful Italian cuisine.  Like me, you may find yourself inspired to plan a trip to the Amalfi coast!

All roads lead to F. Illi Bruno, the triumvirate of Italian ristoranti in New York City. San Pietro, the one owned by Gerardo Bruno, second brother of this foodie family, is on East 54th Street. Nearer to St. Pat’s than to the Vatican, San Pietro takes it’s name from the Piazza in Rome that welcomes thousands of tourists. It sits neatly between Fifth and Madison, and in warmer months, provides a terraza as Italian as it’s name.

The main room couches you with it’s warm wood walls, and the architectural art installation that is the ceiling.  Reproduction of a DaVinci drawing, the entire surface hangs with Swarovski crystal balls, positioned where the stars are suspended in their constellations, capturing light with their reflective facets.
Manolo, the Maitre D’, hosts each table as a family member would do.  The menu is a beautifully printed text, open in your hand  while Manolo recites the specials.  This is the introduction.  While decisions are being made, we sip the Peachy Deegan Cocktail, perfectly made by Sam, the bar man. Breads are served, and a plate of olives are placed within a ring of dishes that hold olive oil from the fields of Famiglia Bruno in Salerno.  Next appears a bruschetta, accompanied by pan fried julienned zucchini, light and crispy.  To accompany the appetizers, we are served a Pietracupa Greco di tufo, 2009 Campania.  Perfect balance with my tartare di barbatetola con burrata.  This is a cheese that has an exterior similar to a mozzarella, and a creamy center.  Decadence, and we’ve only just begun. 
Service is on fine china, and etched crystal glassware. Service is a fleet of charming attendants, from Gerardo himself down to the busboys.  Everyone is dressed impeccabley, as are the tables. Attention to detail is ubiquitous. My main course of the signature sea bass comes to the table still enrobed in its sea salt crust.  Ably cracked, the crosta is removed and brought back in tender morsels of perfectly perfumed branzino, on a bed of steamed vegetables.
Gerardo has chosen a very special wine for the main course: a Tenuta di Castiglioni, produced by the Ferragamo family and served only at two of the Bruno restaurants. This wine alone is enough to bring me back.  Light and delicate, this is a red that is to the nose as wonderful as it is to the palate.  
Manolo prepared his Crespelle alla San Pietro at the table.  As an Italian cousin to the Crepe Suzette, the delicate flavors of orange and Grand Marnier marry well with the  Luigi Maffini Passito, our dessert wine.  
There were two more desserts, but why spill all?  Placido Domingo has been here.  We have been here. And now you should come, too.


The moment I stepped foot into the San Pietro Restaurant, ensconced in Midtown East, I knew it was the next best thing to physically being in Southern Italy to partake in the fine cuisine that's renowned to that region.  The decor and ambiance of the main dining room, with its dark wood paneling, white ceramic sculptures and coastal-themed artwork further lent to the sense of being in a cozy and refined Italian home/villa.  And complementing and adding to the atmosphere, my party and I were greeted with the utmost warmth and courtesy by Gerardo Bruno, president of San Pietro Restaurant (of the Bruno Brothers, and of which fellow brother, Antonio, is the executive chef), Manolo Dias, our server for the evening, Lubi, the wine director/sommelier, as well as the rest of the staff.

It must be mentioned that while Italian cuisine is one of my favorite and oft-enjoyed cuisines, I don't actually get to partake in many meals that are true, classic and unadulterated from the regions they're native to (hello, chicken parmagiana and most dishes from Olive Garden, which are considered Americanized).  Therefore, this dining experience is very much an opportunity to almost be in Salerno in Southern Italy to dine on the best it has to offer.  This is especially true, as Chef Bruno imports approximately 85% of his ingredients from Southern Italy!  And we learned the Bruno Family actually manufacture their own extra virgin olive oil and canned tomatoes back in Salerno!

For our pre-appetizer, the table was brought a plate of thin-sliced pan fried zucchini paired with bruschetta- a moist, chewy and generously-sized toasted bread topped with diced tomatoes and brushed with extra virgin olive oil, oregano and basil.  This properly whet our appetite for all the dishes to come.  I was feeling in the mood for seafood and had a strong leanings towards the fish offerings on the menu.  I settled on an appetizer of Crudo Di Branzino Con Frutta Tropicale (carpaccio of branzino with orange, grapefruit and mache salad with extra virgin olive oil and lemon dressing), which was absolutely divine.  The fish had a light, delicate taste and paired very nicely with the citrus fruits, providing a refreshing and soothing counterpoint, neither taste overwhelming the other.  For the main course, I opted for fish again, the Tagliata de Tonno In Crosta Di Erbe Con Caponata (yellow fin tuna in a crust of fresh herbs, grilled with braised
 vegetables with a dressing of olive oil and balsamic vinegar).  I requested the tuna to be prepared rare, the mild taste of which was enhanced by the crust of fresh herbs and went nicely with the slight tartness of the braised vegetables.  When the time for dessert came up, Manolo treated my companions and I to a made-by-the-tableside Crespelle alla San Pietro (a rendition of what's commonly known as Crepes Suzette), complete with the flames and all.  Along with a center table plate of sliced Sicilian blood orange topped with lemon and peach sorbet, it was a most delicious medley of sweet and tart flavors and a perfect way to end the evening.

Along with each of the courses served, Gerardo, Manolo and Lubi suggested and brought out excellent wine pairings.  The Pietracupa - Greco di tufo - 2009 Campania, a soft white, went well with my appetizer.  Next, the Tenuta di Castiglioni (produced by the Ferragamo Family!) - C.Sauvignon/Melot/C.Franc/Saniovese - 2008 Toscana, a vibrant, fragrant and full-bodied red, was favored immensely by everyone with their main course.  Lastly, to go with dessert, we had the Luigi Maffini "Passito," a sweet and delicious dessert wine that heightened our enjoyment of our two desserts.  An added treat to this whole dining experience was Gerardo taking the time to stop by our table throughout the evening to regale us with stories of him and his brothers growing up in Southern Italy, their eventual move to the States, starting their very successful restaurant ventures here and the huge influence that their parents and their homeland have had on them.  He even brought his iPad to the table to show us photos to go with the stories.  His passion and warmth are so immediately apparent and especially contagious.  I'm adding Southern Italy along the Amalfi Coast to my list of dream places to visit, and the times that I can't be there but long for a visit, I'll be sure to stop by San Pietro Restaurant!
Peachy picks San Pietro!
And remember, it's not who you know, it's Whom You Know!    
Here are Peachy and Giuseppe at Sistina, also a Peachy's Pick by the Bruno brothers.
We had to say hi on our way home!

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