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Friday, December 5, 2014

Peachy Picks The Marshal Our Coverage Sponsored by Fresh Origins

Charlie Marshall, Owner of The Marshal with delicious dessert

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 Nearly a year ago, we introduced you to a restaurant that was both new to us and new to Manhattan, called The Marshal:
The Marshal opened on September 26, 2013.  In 2014, we were delighted to return for a formal review-this is their first- and owner Charlie Marshall (note two L's) of The Marshal (one L) is a total peach.  Now we will remember Hell's Kitchen for something other than Joey Mullen (go BC hockey!).  Like Culinary King Rufino Lopez, Charlie grew up on a farm, and Charlie's is on the West Coast, not in Spain.  Their cuisine is delicious, and if you have seen Peachy Deegan's towering height, you know that we believe good things come in small packages.  Despite our firm commitment to this belief, we can't wait for The Marshal to someday move to a bigger space as we will warn you we were like sardines the night we visited, testament to their popularity.  They definitely make the most of their space, perhaps more so than any other restaurant we've ever seen.  (Space is not the problem in other cities that it is in Manhattan in our restaurant experience.  We happily sprawl out at every Washington table!)
When we arrived at our reserved table by the window and once we ordered it, warm fresh bread was brought to us (it is a menu item, which we find unusual.)  The wood oven french loaf is enhanced beautifully by homemade butter and as the weather continues to freeze us, we think this is a terrific comfort food.  Note we are not always talking about the bread...Charlie's bread rocks!
 To us, great wine is a must at dinner.
 Peachy Deegan began with a robust red from New York State that was enjoyable:
Cabernet Sauvignon, Arrowhead Spring, Niagara Escarpment, 2010
 For an appetizer, Peachy Deegan ordered the Blue Newfoundland Mussels with cream, garlic, herbs, white wine and wood oven breadsticks.
 We are huge advocates of fresh seafood such as this, and though mussels are a simple dish, these mussels that our friend Charlie makes are simply extraordinarily prepared.
 Just look at the quality and size, and remember that we do not EVER edit the pictures.  Some readers may find it unbelievable that some people we work in a review context with ask us to, and when that happens, often we do not publish on them because airbrushing an experience to us is dishonest.  Remember, we don't publish anything bad on anyone, so you won't know who these people are...however, these Blue Newfoundland Mussels are honestly succulent and something we'd order again.
 Up with Charlie and his mussels.  Clearly his kitchen is working out and so in shape! 
 Not everything delicious photographs well (Meatloaf, next time you're coming with us to see Edward and Joel to get your hair done before we take your picture!), but do let us introduce to your stomach Peachy's entree she chose: Wood Oven Roasted Meatloaf.  We would definitely rather have a delicious dish that needs to go to hair and makeup over a pretty dish that tastes horrible of course.  The taste of this ensures that real magic happens in that wood oven of theirs at The Marshal, and the quality of the arcadian pastures beef is a carnivore's delight.  When you see the detail on the menu of The Marshal and receive taste confirmation on your palate, you will see why restaurants run by one single owner that grew up on a farm are extraordinary and different from common places.  By the way, this wonderful meatloaf is stuffed with Tonjes Farm Handmade Mozzarella, Parsnips by Dagele Brothers, Carrots and White and Purple Kale.  Talk about comfort food for the cold weather!
 At The Marshal, you must order side dishes separately as you would at a steakhouse.
We tried sauteed Pea Tendrils, above, 
 braised purple cabbage with spanish onions, 
 ...and Phillips Farm Sweet Potato and Kale au Gratin with Parmesean Pennsylvania Swiss and Cream.  Yes, the one with the cream that was probably the least healthy tasted the best to Peachy but they all were fresh, radiant and balanced each other out nicely.
 Sometimes if a restaurant does a good job, we ask the owner to sit and chat with us at dessert and Charlie was happy to squeeze in with us.  
 We were happy with both the Port Poached Rhubarb and Strawberries with Sweet Ricotta and Walnut Crumble: 
 ...and the Bittersweet Chilled Chocolate Fudge in NYC Honey!
 Our esteemed panelist adds:
On a busy Friday, we had dinner at The Marshal in Manhattan’s Hell’s Kitchen. A walk up Tenth Avenue reveals that this neighborhood is bursting with activity; dinner tables spill onto the sidewalks of this broad thoroughfare. But if you’re out for delicious, reasonably priced, authentic local cuisine in an unpretentious atmosphere keep walking, past the large eateries with their white tablecloths, to a tiny and charming picture window stamped with a sheriff’s star. “The Marshal: American Brick Oven Cuisine since 2013."  I began with a lovely Chardonnay:
This new boite’s tiny space could be intimate on a Tuesday at 6, but on a Friday night, this joint was jumping! Young and attractive people cram every table. We sat in the window, perfect to take in the passing street scene. But the rest of the tables line an old exposed brick wall, which is equally charming. A tiny bar at the back of the room burst with clientele, enjoying the “Classic Twist” or more avant garde “Market” cocktails while they waited for one of the much coveted ten or so tables.  
Unlike so many pretenders, the Marshal is the real deal farm-to-table experience. This was confirmed when we met the charming and gregarious owner, Charlie Marshall, who was friendly and warm despite the crowds of people clamoring for a seat at his table. A convert to city life, Charlie actually grew up on a farm in the Northwestern United States where he learned firsthand the value of traditionally produced foods. While it’s too far for him to ship in items from his family farm, Charlie has given over the entire flipside of his menu to detailing all of his purveyors; a handy map assures doubters that all of the Marshal’s ingredients are in fact locally sourced. 
And the results are outstanding. We started with the warm “wood oven French loaf,” plenty for two, and the light, spreadable, homemade butter. Newfoundland mussels in a creamy garlicky soup were the perfect accompaniment for our bread once the butter was gone. We also enjoyed a stuffed local zucchini, crisscrossed with a balsamic reduction and stuffed with tomatoes and cheese. What’s not to like? 
As most of the entrees at the Marshal are served a la carte, we augmented our Meatloaf and Short Ribs with pea tendrils, red cabbage, and sweet potato and kale au gratin. I like just about anything “au gratin,” but this sweet potato and kale combination was unusually tasty for something so healthy. The cabbage was tender and flavorful, and the pea shoots were crunchy and fresh. But the real winner was the short rib—such a buttery and tender sweet barbecued piece of beef, I could have eaten with a spoon.
Desserts included a velvety ribbon of chocolate that was the consistency of ganache, floating on honey and topped with ice cream. The rhubarb and berry crisp was not too sweet but still burst with flavor.
Charlie is fully committed to a local menu, and this dedication extends to his wine list. While many snobs turn their noses up at wine that is not from France or California, more and more producers are nailing their varietals. The Finger Lakes Chardonnay was light and buttery. The North Fork Pinot Grigio was surprisingly drinkable and lively for a wine so dry, which is how we like them!
So go! Drink, eat and make merry! Just don’t forget to make a reservation because this little hotspot gets packed by dinner.

Peachy Picks The Marshal!
The Marshal is Recommended by Whom You Know.
Peachy Deegan and Owner Charlie Marshall

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